After three weeks of delicious home-cooked meals and typical Bolivian dishes, I faltered and had Burger King this morning. I was at the airport and starving and it was convenient. I feel like I let the entire country down by eating there.
It wasn`t good. I promise I will never do it again.
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Speed
Going down "the most dangerous road in the world" at god knows what speed on a bike, over loose rocks and sailing dangerously close to the edge of cliffs that fall hundreds of meters to the base, from a starting point of 4785 meters (about 14,000 feet) where it`s raining and snowing, is lots of fun. And a rush.
I survived it.
Now I am flying to Santa Cruz. I hope my flight is less dangerous.
I survived it.
Now I am flying to Santa Cruz. I hope my flight is less dangerous.
Monday, January 14, 2008
Dangerous?
Bolivia has a road that has been named the "world`s most dangerous road". I have no idea who named it. But apparently there are more deaths on this road than on any other road in the world.
Tomorrow I am going biking down it. I was supposed to go Saturday. But the group left at 7am and since I didn`t get home from a night out of boozing it up until 6am, I decided it best not to chance the steep cliffs with a hangover.
Wish me luck. Hoepfully I won`t need to use that emergency evacuation insurance I bought back in the States.
Tomorrow I am going biking down it. I was supposed to go Saturday. But the group left at 7am and since I didn`t get home from a night out of boozing it up until 6am, I decided it best not to chance the steep cliffs with a hangover.
Wish me luck. Hoepfully I won`t need to use that emergency evacuation insurance I bought back in the States.
Friday, January 11, 2008
Down and Up Again
When I met my coworker in La Paz we had lunch at his uncle`s place. While I was there I went to the bathroom and saw a scale. For curiousity`s sake, I stepped on. I had lost 8 pounds while traveling.
That was Christmas eve. Today we returned to his uncle`s place for lunch. I went up to the bathroom to step on the scale again. Three weeks with his family and I have gained 11 pounds.
That was Christmas eve. Today we returned to his uncle`s place for lunch. I went up to the bathroom to step on the scale again. Three weeks with his family and I have gained 11 pounds.
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Taking in Arequipa
After sleeping for 12 hours straight I was feeling a bit better the following morning and decided to take in the sites of Arequipa. And check in with the tour agency about the trip to Colca Canyon. But first I needed a bit of nourishment. I walked to the local market and bought a big bottle of some yogurt drink. Then bought a banana and some small peaches from the women selling fruit near the plaza. For the next hour I chilled in the plaza, ate my breakfast, and watched the city go by.
Feeling well-nourished, it was time to see what Arequipa had to offer. First stop: Juantia, the Ice Princess. Over 500 years ago an Inca maiden was sacificed on the summit of Ampato mountian, most likely to appease the gods rocking the local volcanoes. The Incas did this with many children to appease gods who might kill them with volcanic eruptions, avalanches or earthquakes. Juanita was discovered by trekkers climbing the mountain, two weeks after she was shaken loose from her grave by a volcanic eruption. Almost perfectly mummified becaue of the ice, she is now housed in a frozen glass casing, along with many of the items she was burried with, in the Museo Santury in Arequipa. Although pictures were prohibited, the tour was vey interesting and gave a lot of insight to the practice of sacrifice and the reverence involved. The sacrificed children were raised to be offerings to the gods and were honored to do so. Though the journey to the top of the mountain and the bitter cold of it all probably didn´t reduce any of the anxiety the children felt, the blow to the head before the burrial probably did help reduce the anxiety...
Before seeing any more on the city I wanted to check in with the tour agency. They still had no other interests for the hike and suggested I come back at 3pm. I said I needed to leave by the next day and that if no one had signed up by then, I would need to check elsewhere. There was a recommened agency next door (but it was closed the previous day) and I was hoping no one came within that time so I could check there. But I told the agency I would check back at three.
Next I decided to visit Arequipa`s biggest tourist draw: the Monastario de Santa Catalina, a convent founded in 1579 by a wealthy widow for nuns chosen from the wealthiest Spanish families in Peru. It was opened to the public in 1970 in order to raise money. The place is huge - it takes up an entire city block and is like a city within a city. One could spend hours walking around the complex. I will leave all the details to be explained along with the pictures in the link below. Needless to say, it was a pretty amazing place and with relatively few tourists that day, a meditatively quiet way to spend an afternoon. I paid a bit extra for a private guide who filled me in on all the details.
It was getting late when I finally finished the tour and so I rushed over to the agency to see what news they had for me. Still no one. I told them thanks for trying and went next door. Within 10 minutes I was signed up for a 3 day tour of Colca Canyon leaving at 5:30 the next morning with three dutch backpackers. I needed to be in Puno in three days to sort out my visa requirements for Bolivia, and the agency said they could accommodate that. Basically by dropping me off at a police check point and making sure the police on duty flagged down a bus for me going the opposite direction (tours generally return to the city they depart from). I had no other choice and agreed to go along with that plan.
Tour booked, it was time find some food. I found an entire street of Chinese restaurants (Arequipa`s very own Chinatown) and went with my favorite, chicken and rice, for about a buck twenty. Always full after a chinese dish in South America, I went in search of snacks for the trip and then back to the main plaza to walk around. I noticed that Arequipa had a huge homeless population. It was the first time this made such an impression on me. People and children were begging every where. There were even some gringos walking around with a few homeless children selling small calendars to raise money to support shelter programs. I felt so moved by the number of homeless I couldn´t bring myself to tell them I had already bought a calendar and finished the day with three of them (office mates should expect gifts when I return).
Around 8pm I went back to the hostal to pack for the next day. I needed to get to bed early; my ride to Colca Canyon was picking me up bright and early.
For pictures of Arequipa and details of the Monastary, follow this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603596236171/
Feeling well-nourished, it was time to see what Arequipa had to offer. First stop: Juantia, the Ice Princess. Over 500 years ago an Inca maiden was sacificed on the summit of Ampato mountian, most likely to appease the gods rocking the local volcanoes. The Incas did this with many children to appease gods who might kill them with volcanic eruptions, avalanches or earthquakes. Juanita was discovered by trekkers climbing the mountain, two weeks after she was shaken loose from her grave by a volcanic eruption. Almost perfectly mummified becaue of the ice, she is now housed in a frozen glass casing, along with many of the items she was burried with, in the Museo Santury in Arequipa. Although pictures were prohibited, the tour was vey interesting and gave a lot of insight to the practice of sacrifice and the reverence involved. The sacrificed children were raised to be offerings to the gods and were honored to do so. Though the journey to the top of the mountain and the bitter cold of it all probably didn´t reduce any of the anxiety the children felt, the blow to the head before the burrial probably did help reduce the anxiety...
Before seeing any more on the city I wanted to check in with the tour agency. They still had no other interests for the hike and suggested I come back at 3pm. I said I needed to leave by the next day and that if no one had signed up by then, I would need to check elsewhere. There was a recommened agency next door (but it was closed the previous day) and I was hoping no one came within that time so I could check there. But I told the agency I would check back at three.
Next I decided to visit Arequipa`s biggest tourist draw: the Monastario de Santa Catalina, a convent founded in 1579 by a wealthy widow for nuns chosen from the wealthiest Spanish families in Peru. It was opened to the public in 1970 in order to raise money. The place is huge - it takes up an entire city block and is like a city within a city. One could spend hours walking around the complex. I will leave all the details to be explained along with the pictures in the link below. Needless to say, it was a pretty amazing place and with relatively few tourists that day, a meditatively quiet way to spend an afternoon. I paid a bit extra for a private guide who filled me in on all the details.
It was getting late when I finally finished the tour and so I rushed over to the agency to see what news they had for me. Still no one. I told them thanks for trying and went next door. Within 10 minutes I was signed up for a 3 day tour of Colca Canyon leaving at 5:30 the next morning with three dutch backpackers. I needed to be in Puno in three days to sort out my visa requirements for Bolivia, and the agency said they could accommodate that. Basically by dropping me off at a police check point and making sure the police on duty flagged down a bus for me going the opposite direction (tours generally return to the city they depart from). I had no other choice and agreed to go along with that plan.
Tour booked, it was time find some food. I found an entire street of Chinese restaurants (Arequipa`s very own Chinatown) and went with my favorite, chicken and rice, for about a buck twenty. Always full after a chinese dish in South America, I went in search of snacks for the trip and then back to the main plaza to walk around. I noticed that Arequipa had a huge homeless population. It was the first time this made such an impression on me. People and children were begging every where. There were even some gringos walking around with a few homeless children selling small calendars to raise money to support shelter programs. I felt so moved by the number of homeless I couldn´t bring myself to tell them I had already bought a calendar and finished the day with three of them (office mates should expect gifts when I return).
Around 8pm I went back to the hostal to pack for the next day. I needed to get to bed early; my ride to Colca Canyon was picking me up bright and early.
For pictures of Arequipa and details of the Monastary, follow this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603596236171/
Monday, January 7, 2008
Random Thoughts in Sucre
So far in every South American country I have visited cough drops are considered breath mints.
You can´t be modest and need to go to the bathroom in Bolivia. People relieve themselves every where.
I want to learn an obscure language like Swahili or Quechua so when I am in groups of backpackers from different countries who are all speaking to each other in languages I can`t understand I can then have a private conversation too.
I also want some one else who can speak that obscure language to show up when these conversations are going down.
I have yet to learn that higher altitude means sunburning quicker.
If I were stationed here as a Peace Corp volunteer, my first purchase with my meager stipen would be a toilet seat. Seriously, where are all the toilet seats here?
There is a sad disconnect between the mestisos (the mostly white people) and the indigenous people in South America.
You can´t be modest and need to go to the bathroom in Bolivia. People relieve themselves every where.
I want to learn an obscure language like Swahili or Quechua so when I am in groups of backpackers from different countries who are all speaking to each other in languages I can`t understand I can then have a private conversation too.
I also want some one else who can speak that obscure language to show up when these conversations are going down.
I have yet to learn that higher altitude means sunburning quicker.
If I were stationed here as a Peace Corp volunteer, my first purchase with my meager stipen would be a toilet seat. Seriously, where are all the toilet seats here?
There is a sad disconnect between the mestisos (the mostly white people) and the indigenous people in South America.
Taking It Easy In the White City
I was already starting to feel a bit under the weather before taking off for the Inca Trail. After four days of hiking my body was exhausted and it was letting me know. Between the exertion of the trail and the altitude I had been dealing with for over a week, I was ready for a break whether I wanted one or not. My next stop on Dan´s Adventure Trail was Arequipa, Peru´s 2nd largest city, surrounded by three volcanos. The city is the the best place to catch a trek to Colca Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world. But first I needed some R&R.
In Cusco I packed up my stuff, bid my travel buddy good luck on her treck to Machu Picchu, and went out in search of a taxi to catch my over-night bus to Arequipa. As soon as I hit the streets it was lights out. Literally. The power went out all over the city. It was 7pm and completely dark. But no one seemed to notice or care that the city was suddenly plunged into darkness. Cabs were still driving around and I flagged one down by practically tossing my bag in front of it. Once inside I told him I needed to go to the company office for my particular bus. Then I asked when he thought the lights might come back. He wasn´t sure. I asked if this happened often. Yes. Would it effect the busses? Probably not. Full-steam ahead then.
After sitting out in front of the bus company office for 15 minutes, in the dark in what had to be the sketchiest part of town, some one shown a flash light in my face. I was pretty sure they asked if I was going to Arequipa on their bus. I answered yes, and they motioned for me to follow them into an even darker gated area. There I saw my bus. Then the city`s lights came back on. And there I saw a waiting room with about 5 people who didn´t seem to notice the lights had gone out or come back on.
The bus ride was interesting. It was my first all-night bus trip so I picked a nicer bus company. I was on the second level (another first) and in the very back. A stewardess made a 10 minute announcement in spanish of which I understood almost nothing. When she finished I asked if she could repeat it in english. She said she instructed the passengers how to recline their seats and that bingo would start shortly. That took 10 minutes? We were going to play bingo?!
At 6:30am and after maybe a solid hour of sleep, we pulled into Arequipa`s bus terminal. It was the first bus terminal I had seen in Peru. I was feeling very sick and decided to grab a cab to a hostal immediately so I could lay down. It was early on a Sunday morning and the town was dead. We found the hostal I found in my Lonely Planet guide and I asked the clerk for a room. He said I couldn´t check in before 11am, but apparently I looked pretty bad because he offered up a 3 bed room that was ready then for the price of a 1 bed room. And there I slept for the next four hours.
I woke to my phone beeping. A text from my travel buddy. She was stuck in Aqua Calientes with no money and the only ATM in the city was broken. Machu Picchu would have to wait.
My cold was still hitting me hard but I decided to go out and get some errands done. I found a working ATM and got some money, mailed some postcards, and looked for a tour agency to sign up for a trek into Colca Canyon on Tuesday. I found an agency, but I was the only prospect they had all day and would have to wait to see if anyone else signed up. I told them I would come back later in the afternoon to check in. My stomach was growling something fierce so I went looking for the crepe restaurant Lonely Planet recommended. The menu was huge. And in Spanish. I ordered what I thought was a full breakfast with crepes, eggs, and sausage. I got a plate of sliced hotdogs.
After my disappointng breakfast I strolled around the city plaza taking in the sites and killing time hoping the tour agency would find more trekers. The plaza was packed with people. And it gave me plenty to watch, perched on my bench in the center.
Around 4pm I went back to the tour agency to see if there was any news. Still no one. They suggested I come back tomorrow morning as more people usually show up first thing. I told them I would see them at noon. There was nothing else open so I had no other options.
My head was pounding and I decided to go back to the hostal to rest. I flipped through my travel guide to see what all there was in the city to check out. Quite a bit it turns out. I jotted down a few of the highlights. Then my stomach growled. There was a ceviche restaurant a few blocks over and I had not yet tried any of Peru`s famed dish. So I cleaned myself up and eagerly went in search of dinner. It was closed - of course. I was feeling too weak to go looking for anything else. And so, when I noticed the fast food chicken place full of locals across the street, I elected that as the next best option. At about $1.80 for half a chicken and a salad bar that I decided wasn´t worth the risk, I ate fairly well. Enough to send me back to the hostal full and ready for more rest. The rest of Arequipa would have to wait until the next morning. If I felt better.
In Cusco I packed up my stuff, bid my travel buddy good luck on her treck to Machu Picchu, and went out in search of a taxi to catch my over-night bus to Arequipa. As soon as I hit the streets it was lights out. Literally. The power went out all over the city. It was 7pm and completely dark. But no one seemed to notice or care that the city was suddenly plunged into darkness. Cabs were still driving around and I flagged one down by practically tossing my bag in front of it. Once inside I told him I needed to go to the company office for my particular bus. Then I asked when he thought the lights might come back. He wasn´t sure. I asked if this happened often. Yes. Would it effect the busses? Probably not. Full-steam ahead then.
After sitting out in front of the bus company office for 15 minutes, in the dark in what had to be the sketchiest part of town, some one shown a flash light in my face. I was pretty sure they asked if I was going to Arequipa on their bus. I answered yes, and they motioned for me to follow them into an even darker gated area. There I saw my bus. Then the city`s lights came back on. And there I saw a waiting room with about 5 people who didn´t seem to notice the lights had gone out or come back on.
The bus ride was interesting. It was my first all-night bus trip so I picked a nicer bus company. I was on the second level (another first) and in the very back. A stewardess made a 10 minute announcement in spanish of which I understood almost nothing. When she finished I asked if she could repeat it in english. She said she instructed the passengers how to recline their seats and that bingo would start shortly. That took 10 minutes? We were going to play bingo?!
At 6:30am and after maybe a solid hour of sleep, we pulled into Arequipa`s bus terminal. It was the first bus terminal I had seen in Peru. I was feeling very sick and decided to grab a cab to a hostal immediately so I could lay down. It was early on a Sunday morning and the town was dead. We found the hostal I found in my Lonely Planet guide and I asked the clerk for a room. He said I couldn´t check in before 11am, but apparently I looked pretty bad because he offered up a 3 bed room that was ready then for the price of a 1 bed room. And there I slept for the next four hours.
I woke to my phone beeping. A text from my travel buddy. She was stuck in Aqua Calientes with no money and the only ATM in the city was broken. Machu Picchu would have to wait.
My cold was still hitting me hard but I decided to go out and get some errands done. I found a working ATM and got some money, mailed some postcards, and looked for a tour agency to sign up for a trek into Colca Canyon on Tuesday. I found an agency, but I was the only prospect they had all day and would have to wait to see if anyone else signed up. I told them I would come back later in the afternoon to check in. My stomach was growling something fierce so I went looking for the crepe restaurant Lonely Planet recommended. The menu was huge. And in Spanish. I ordered what I thought was a full breakfast with crepes, eggs, and sausage. I got a plate of sliced hotdogs.
After my disappointng breakfast I strolled around the city plaza taking in the sites and killing time hoping the tour agency would find more trekers. The plaza was packed with people. And it gave me plenty to watch, perched on my bench in the center.
Around 4pm I went back to the tour agency to see if there was any news. Still no one. They suggested I come back tomorrow morning as more people usually show up first thing. I told them I would see them at noon. There was nothing else open so I had no other options.
My head was pounding and I decided to go back to the hostal to rest. I flipped through my travel guide to see what all there was in the city to check out. Quite a bit it turns out. I jotted down a few of the highlights. Then my stomach growled. There was a ceviche restaurant a few blocks over and I had not yet tried any of Peru`s famed dish. So I cleaned myself up and eagerly went in search of dinner. It was closed - of course. I was feeling too weak to go looking for anything else. And so, when I noticed the fast food chicken place full of locals across the street, I elected that as the next best option. At about $1.80 for half a chicken and a salad bar that I decided wasn´t worth the risk, I ate fairly well. Enough to send me back to the hostal full and ready for more rest. The rest of Arequipa would have to wait until the next morning. If I felt better.
26 hours
Just arrived in Sucre after 26 hours of traveling in a Toyota Landrover and a large bus. whew.
The salt flats and deserts of Bolivia were eye candy. Worth all the hours on bumpy, unpaved roads and the meager rations. Pictures to come soon. For now, it´s time to chill. I am going to try and post stories and pics from Arequipa and Colca Canyon today as I chill. Tonight I plan to sleep for at least 12 hours. And on Wednesday morning it is back to La Paz for a few days.
I am debating heading north of La Paz for a jungle and wetlands tour (think anacondas, pink dolphins and piranhas) or take a long train to Brazil to do the wetlands there. Each has it´s pluses and minuses. Traveling is tough work.
The salt flats and deserts of Bolivia were eye candy. Worth all the hours on bumpy, unpaved roads and the meager rations. Pictures to come soon. For now, it´s time to chill. I am going to try and post stories and pics from Arequipa and Colca Canyon today as I chill. Tonight I plan to sleep for at least 12 hours. And on Wednesday morning it is back to La Paz for a few days.
I am debating heading north of La Paz for a jungle and wetlands tour (think anacondas, pink dolphins and piranhas) or take a long train to Brazil to do the wetlands there. Each has it´s pluses and minuses. Traveling is tough work.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Happy New Year´s
Do you remember it? Not sure I do. Well, parts of it, like polarod snap shots in my mind. Did not sleep at all new year´s eve night (or the following morning). When we got home, there was enough time to get ready to head out for my coworker`s grandfather`s birthday party. That lasted well into the night and involved a ridiculous amount of wine. A few hours of sleep that night and then up to get packed to leave for Potosi. I was on an all-night bus last night. The road traveled was not paved. In fact it was really bumpy. My coworker didn´t sleep at all. I think I managed to sleep off and on for about 2 hours. We are about to board another 7 hour bus for Uyuni. I will sleep there. Hopefully.
Hope everyone is having a great start to the new year. I think I am.
Hope everyone is having a great start to the new year. I think I am.
Monday, December 31, 2007
It Was This Big!
Our final morning started the way the previous day ended: dark and raining. The guides woke us at 4am. As I slowly came to I realized our tent had leaked during the night; the bottom of my sleeping bag was soaked. December is the rainy season. I just hoped the rain would clear before we got to Machu Picchu.
Breakfast was light. Our guides were eager to get us moving. The trail from our campsite to Machu was only 5 kilometers but they wanted us to be among the first to see Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate when the sun rose.
We hiked in the rain to a gate five minutes down the trail. This was the entrance to the last part of the trail. Apparently no one is allowed through before 5:30am. Not exactly sure why, but there we were, waiting behind this gate until the clock hit 5:30. Other groups piled in behind us. At least we managed to be first. As we waited, the rain stopped. Booyah!
When the gates opened people bolted. Suddenly I realized I was practically jogging the trail. It was narrow and I eventually found myself stuck behind two other trekkers from my group. They tried to make small talk but I only wanted to pass. When the trail widened, I did just that. Why was I in such a hurry? No idea. We were all going to have to wait at the Sun Gate together. Maybe I just wanted to make up for going so slow the day before.
The trail was relatively easy, even as I jogged it. It was easy right up until the almost vertical flight of 50 Inca stairs leading up to the Sun Gate. I leaped up step after step as others climbed with hands. And then I got to the top at the Sun Gate and almost passed out. Should have taken those steps a little slower. But I was eager to see Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate. The Sun Gate, or Intipunku, is where trekkers get their first grand view of the site. And when I looked out to where Machu Picchu was supposed to be I saw…..clouds. Should have taken those steps a little slower.
As everyone trickled in we sat and waited. There were small breaks in the clouds and the hope was that the early sun would burn the rest off. Our guide didn’t look hopeful. As more and more hikers gave up and continued on with the hike to the site, we started to give up hope. Fifteen minutes later we were walking the last 20 minutes down to Machu Picchu.
When we arrived at the watchman’s hut, the spot for the classic postcard view, the site was still covered in clouds. We were in Machu Picchu and couldn’t see it. Sigh.
Time to take care of formalities. We descended down to the main entrance, where the day-trippers arrive by bus. The site was already busy, several buses had arrived and dozens of people were walking around. Our guide led us to a passport check where we presented our park tickets and received another stamp. Now immigration will know I did the Inca trail AND saw Machu Picchu. After bathroom visits and bag checks, we regrouped and reentered the site. Our guide took us to a spot near the front of the site where he began his lecture about the history of Machu Picchu – The Lost City of the Incas.
Perched high in the Andes with a commanding view, Machu Picchu clearly was once vitally important as a ceremonial center. Most of the site is still intact, mainly because the Spanish seem never to have discovered its existence. There are no records or mention of the citadel in the chronicles kept by the Spanish and therefore no clear indication of what the site was used for. In 1911, while looking for the lost city of Vilcabamba, the last stronghold on the Incas, American historian Hiram Bingham discovered Machu Picchu – thickly overgrown and abandoned. Now, up to a 1000 people a day visit the site during its busy season.
Not quite as many people were there while we were which made the tour and lecture more enjoyable. As our guide talked, the clouds lifted revealing an enormous site – much bigger than I expected it to be. I was almost overwhelmed. And surrounded by the awe-inspiring Andes, I suddenly felt very small. But I could appreciate why the Incas chose the site. We continued walking throughout the site as our guide explained various parts. For two hours we learned about Machu Picchu and the Incas and their fate after the Spanish conquest. The whole experience was incredible and doing the hike in along the trail only enhanced the experience.
Finally we were given three hours to explore on our own. Because I missed both post card views of the entire citadel, I decided to tackle Huayna Picchu, the imposing mountain seen in most pictures of the site behind the citadel. From the top of this mountain we were told there would be a sweeping view of Machu Picchu. But we were warned it would require lots of energy as the trail up was steep and tough. I didn’t care. I wanted the view. And off I went with several others from the group. It was steep. And it was tough. I was again breathing hard and my heart was racing within minutes. The tight Inca stairs up the mountain were soaked from the earlier rains and didn’t help the climb. Finally, at the top, I got my view of the entire city, But I was so high up the citadel looked tiny. No matter, the views were still amazing. Of the site, of the trail down the mountain, of the Andes.
By the time I made it back to the base of Huayna Picchu I had about half an hour before I was to catch the bus back to Aqua Calientes where we would meet the guides again and catch a train back to Cuzco. I decided to make a dash back to the watchman’s hut for the quintessential shot of Macchu Picchu. I followed a family towards that direction only to find myself in a restricted part of the park. The father shrugged his shoulders as I backtracked. Machu Picchu is easy to get lost in and I did several times on my way to the hut. But it was also a good way to see parts I hadn’t seen during the tour. Finally I made it to the hut. And the resulting view was worth the scramble. I got the camera shot I wanted. Then I took several goofy ones. Why not? I deserved it.
As the rain started once again, the group gradually found each other near the entrance and we piled into the buses bound for Agua Calientes. Here we met our guides again at a restaurant and chowed on pizzas and beer and talked about our last four days together. We tipped the porters and the guides. And with money in hand, the guides led us to the train station where we departed on our four hour ride back to Cuzco. I spent most of the trip discussing Holland with the two girls from said country.
Once back in Cuzco, I decided I didn’t have the energy or the patience to spend another night in the party hostal. A couple in the group mentioned a hostal they were staying in a few blocks from the party pad. They said it was quiet and comfy. And for only $18 a night it was perfect. I checked in, dropped my things, and headed down to the restaurant/lounge for one of the best omelets I have ever had and a huge fresh fruit drink. And I read by the fireplace in absolute silence. At midnight I crawled into the most comfortable bed I had slept in to that point and immediately passed out. I had earned my rest.
For pictures of the trail and Machu Picchu, follow this link:
http://flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603570646929/
Breakfast was light. Our guides were eager to get us moving. The trail from our campsite to Machu was only 5 kilometers but they wanted us to be among the first to see Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate when the sun rose.
We hiked in the rain to a gate five minutes down the trail. This was the entrance to the last part of the trail. Apparently no one is allowed through before 5:30am. Not exactly sure why, but there we were, waiting behind this gate until the clock hit 5:30. Other groups piled in behind us. At least we managed to be first. As we waited, the rain stopped. Booyah!
When the gates opened people bolted. Suddenly I realized I was practically jogging the trail. It was narrow and I eventually found myself stuck behind two other trekkers from my group. They tried to make small talk but I only wanted to pass. When the trail widened, I did just that. Why was I in such a hurry? No idea. We were all going to have to wait at the Sun Gate together. Maybe I just wanted to make up for going so slow the day before.
The trail was relatively easy, even as I jogged it. It was easy right up until the almost vertical flight of 50 Inca stairs leading up to the Sun Gate. I leaped up step after step as others climbed with hands. And then I got to the top at the Sun Gate and almost passed out. Should have taken those steps a little slower. But I was eager to see Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate. The Sun Gate, or Intipunku, is where trekkers get their first grand view of the site. And when I looked out to where Machu Picchu was supposed to be I saw…..clouds. Should have taken those steps a little slower.
As everyone trickled in we sat and waited. There were small breaks in the clouds and the hope was that the early sun would burn the rest off. Our guide didn’t look hopeful. As more and more hikers gave up and continued on with the hike to the site, we started to give up hope. Fifteen minutes later we were walking the last 20 minutes down to Machu Picchu.
When we arrived at the watchman’s hut, the spot for the classic postcard view, the site was still covered in clouds. We were in Machu Picchu and couldn’t see it. Sigh.
Time to take care of formalities. We descended down to the main entrance, where the day-trippers arrive by bus. The site was already busy, several buses had arrived and dozens of people were walking around. Our guide led us to a passport check where we presented our park tickets and received another stamp. Now immigration will know I did the Inca trail AND saw Machu Picchu. After bathroom visits and bag checks, we regrouped and reentered the site. Our guide took us to a spot near the front of the site where he began his lecture about the history of Machu Picchu – The Lost City of the Incas.
Perched high in the Andes with a commanding view, Machu Picchu clearly was once vitally important as a ceremonial center. Most of the site is still intact, mainly because the Spanish seem never to have discovered its existence. There are no records or mention of the citadel in the chronicles kept by the Spanish and therefore no clear indication of what the site was used for. In 1911, while looking for the lost city of Vilcabamba, the last stronghold on the Incas, American historian Hiram Bingham discovered Machu Picchu – thickly overgrown and abandoned. Now, up to a 1000 people a day visit the site during its busy season.
Not quite as many people were there while we were which made the tour and lecture more enjoyable. As our guide talked, the clouds lifted revealing an enormous site – much bigger than I expected it to be. I was almost overwhelmed. And surrounded by the awe-inspiring Andes, I suddenly felt very small. But I could appreciate why the Incas chose the site. We continued walking throughout the site as our guide explained various parts. For two hours we learned about Machu Picchu and the Incas and their fate after the Spanish conquest. The whole experience was incredible and doing the hike in along the trail only enhanced the experience.
Finally we were given three hours to explore on our own. Because I missed both post card views of the entire citadel, I decided to tackle Huayna Picchu, the imposing mountain seen in most pictures of the site behind the citadel. From the top of this mountain we were told there would be a sweeping view of Machu Picchu. But we were warned it would require lots of energy as the trail up was steep and tough. I didn’t care. I wanted the view. And off I went with several others from the group. It was steep. And it was tough. I was again breathing hard and my heart was racing within minutes. The tight Inca stairs up the mountain were soaked from the earlier rains and didn’t help the climb. Finally, at the top, I got my view of the entire city, But I was so high up the citadel looked tiny. No matter, the views were still amazing. Of the site, of the trail down the mountain, of the Andes.
By the time I made it back to the base of Huayna Picchu I had about half an hour before I was to catch the bus back to Aqua Calientes where we would meet the guides again and catch a train back to Cuzco. I decided to make a dash back to the watchman’s hut for the quintessential shot of Macchu Picchu. I followed a family towards that direction only to find myself in a restricted part of the park. The father shrugged his shoulders as I backtracked. Machu Picchu is easy to get lost in and I did several times on my way to the hut. But it was also a good way to see parts I hadn’t seen during the tour. Finally I made it to the hut. And the resulting view was worth the scramble. I got the camera shot I wanted. Then I took several goofy ones. Why not? I deserved it.
As the rain started once again, the group gradually found each other near the entrance and we piled into the buses bound for Agua Calientes. Here we met our guides again at a restaurant and chowed on pizzas and beer and talked about our last four days together. We tipped the porters and the guides. And with money in hand, the guides led us to the train station where we departed on our four hour ride back to Cuzco. I spent most of the trip discussing Holland with the two girls from said country.
Once back in Cuzco, I decided I didn’t have the energy or the patience to spend another night in the party hostal. A couple in the group mentioned a hostal they were staying in a few blocks from the party pad. They said it was quiet and comfy. And for only $18 a night it was perfect. I checked in, dropped my things, and headed down to the restaurant/lounge for one of the best omelets I have ever had and a huge fresh fruit drink. And I read by the fireplace in absolute silence. At midnight I crawled into the most comfortable bed I had slept in to that point and immediately passed out. I had earned my rest.
For pictures of the trail and Machu Picchu, follow this link:
http://flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603570646929/
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