Howdy blog readers. I am currently in Buenos Aires just hanging out after a quick jaunt across the river into Uruguay to spend 26 hours in the colonial town of Colonial (clever name). Wasn`t much to do there - the town is tiny - but it is a nifty little historic town and I got to see one more country (and mate-to-go). Tomorrow morning I am flying to Mendoza, Argentina, and doing a private vineyard tour. How cultured am I? Maybe I can finally learn how to pick a bottle of wine by something other than how cool the design of the lable is. I return to Buenos Aires on Thursday morning after an all night bus, and I will have two days to explore the neighborhoods I have missed before catching my flight back to the States. As the English would say, "buggah". Four months is almost at a close and it is a little depressing. This time next week I will be sitting behind a computer in a dark room probably laying out a Word document. sigh.
Hope those of you still reading (hi mom) have enjoyed the stories along the way. Sorry for the delay and my inability to keep up. But who wants to spend hours in a cyber cafe when you can be lounging in a hammock, drinking wine, and staring at the Lake District of Argentina? I can pretty much gaurantee there will be no new stories before I get home. Time is of the essence and I am going to try to make the most of it. But for those of you still interested in what happend during the past month and a half (hi dad), I will write up those stories when I return. Unpacking next weekend will probably get old fast and I will want distractions. Plus UNC is only playing one game on Saturday which means I have all of Sunday to put off unpacking.
Thanks for reading and commenting (hi Carrie). Keep checking in from time to time as new stories from the trip are posted along with pictures. I promise the pictures from Antarctica will be worth the wait. I just looked through them yesterday. Wow. That place was cold.
I will update the blog once or twice more before my plane leaves. As for now, ciao....
Monday, February 25, 2008
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
A Long Goodbye: Day 1 (a month ago)
My coworker had just two days left before his three week family reunion was over and I sent him back to the States to do my work at the office. His flight was sceduled for Saturday night, but it was only Friday morning and there were still several people to see and say goodbye to.
The morning started slow for me. My coworker was up and out at 10:30am to meet a close friend of his grandmothers for a salteña lunch. His grandmother and this friend used to make salteñas together from scratch and he had been telling me how great they were for a week. But I couldn`t muster the energy to get out of bed and told him I would just meet him later when we were to meet his other tio and tia for a second lunch.
At 11am I got a phone call. He was sending a cab to pick me up (he didn`t trust my spanish to get me to the right location) and meet him at the house of his grandmother`s friend. My impression was that he was finishing up and I was only picking him up to head to the other lunch. That wasn`t exactly the case.
The cab arrived at 11:30. The driver spoke no english so I tried my best to talk to him in spanish. Him not speaking english wasn`t so important since my coworker had prearranged my trip. But he asked me how I knew my coworker. I told him and the driver went on and on about how great he was. It seemed like they had known each other for years. He asked me about the States and said he dreamed of driving a cab there, but that it was too hard to get a visa. I told him to keep trying. It was about all I knew how to say. When we finally arrived my coworker was waiting outside and pushed me towards the house door while asking our driver to wait. As we went into the house he explained he wanted to introduce me to everyone. Everyone?
In the dining room was a crowd of people; the family of his grandmother`s friend. I made the rounds. Then I was offered salteñas. Salteñas are delicious. But I knew we had a large lunch coming up shortly. But the sweet older woman who offered them seemed so earnest in wanting me to try one. I had two. Then three. All the while chatting with this group who took great pleasure in offering me English words and asking how much I liked La Paz. They were so warm and inviting I didn`t want to leave. And after three salteñas I really didn`t want another lunch. But my coworker finally said it was time to head to the next family. Our cab was waiting outside still and the dear old woman wrapped up two salteñas for me to take home. More food?
On the way, my coworker informed me that he had only just met our cabbie when he rode to the first lunch (cabbie spoke no english thus this was explained in english). The cabbie had told him work was slow lately so my coworker decided to give him more work by going to pick me up and then, later, taking us to his tio`s house. No wonder the guy liked him so much.
Our second lunch was with the same tio & tia I had joined for lunch the first time I was in La Paz. They were happy to see us again and I made my best effort to speak spanish as much as possible. Since I had no other choice. Lunch was incredible. Again. But I was full. Tia had made a comment during the first lunch I had with them that she was impressed by how I ate everything that was offered to me. This ran through my mind as I stared pleadingly at each dish brought out to the table. I was still so full from the salteñas and this food was adding to my misery. One of the cousins allowed me to dump my potatoes on his plate when tia wasn`t looking. That helped a bit. But by then end, after dessert, I couldn`t move.
My coworker spent time chatting with his cousin and uncle as I paced in circles around them hoping to quicken the digestion. It was of little help. I sat down, I stood up, I paced. I felt miserable. I don`t think I have eaten so much in my life. When it was time to leave, I thanked them repeatidly for the invitation and the meal. Then I stretched out in the cab. We stopped on the way home at a place our friendly cabbie thought I might find a cigar.
And then I stretched out on the front porch with a glass of wine (for digestion), my cigar, and waiting for two hours for the food to digest. It was all I could do. This was followed by a nap.
That night we were celebrating my coworker`s last night in Bolivia with a small get-together at the house and then a trip to the bar. A pizza the size of DC was ordered (I had heard about this pizza for three weeks), but I had no intention of eating it - still aching from my two lunches. While we waited four of us walked over to the markets across the street for the "party in a box". I heard heard tales of this as well. You can buy a party in a box: bottles of booze, cups, mix, and ice for about $20. Box secured we went back to the house. Tio Oscar came over as did my coworker`s friends that I stayed with my first night in La Paz. Drinks were poured and folk music was played. I think there might have even been a bit of dancing. I know Tio attempted to teach me how - to little success. And when we were just saucey enough, we headed to the bar.
The bar was a bit of a dive bar, but with a U2 cover band. We bought a bottle of rum and a bottle of coke and took our seats. Drinking continued way into the night as we toasted our time in Bolivia and basically everything that is Bolivia. When the bar finally kicked us out we stumbled home. I think we made it home around 5am. I can`t be sure. But I was still full. And there was another family lunch coming up soon...
The morning started slow for me. My coworker was up and out at 10:30am to meet a close friend of his grandmothers for a salteña lunch. His grandmother and this friend used to make salteñas together from scratch and he had been telling me how great they were for a week. But I couldn`t muster the energy to get out of bed and told him I would just meet him later when we were to meet his other tio and tia for a second lunch.
At 11am I got a phone call. He was sending a cab to pick me up (he didn`t trust my spanish to get me to the right location) and meet him at the house of his grandmother`s friend. My impression was that he was finishing up and I was only picking him up to head to the other lunch. That wasn`t exactly the case.
The cab arrived at 11:30. The driver spoke no english so I tried my best to talk to him in spanish. Him not speaking english wasn`t so important since my coworker had prearranged my trip. But he asked me how I knew my coworker. I told him and the driver went on and on about how great he was. It seemed like they had known each other for years. He asked me about the States and said he dreamed of driving a cab there, but that it was too hard to get a visa. I told him to keep trying. It was about all I knew how to say. When we finally arrived my coworker was waiting outside and pushed me towards the house door while asking our driver to wait. As we went into the house he explained he wanted to introduce me to everyone. Everyone?
In the dining room was a crowd of people; the family of his grandmother`s friend. I made the rounds. Then I was offered salteñas. Salteñas are delicious. But I knew we had a large lunch coming up shortly. But the sweet older woman who offered them seemed so earnest in wanting me to try one. I had two. Then three. All the while chatting with this group who took great pleasure in offering me English words and asking how much I liked La Paz. They were so warm and inviting I didn`t want to leave. And after three salteñas I really didn`t want another lunch. But my coworker finally said it was time to head to the next family. Our cab was waiting outside still and the dear old woman wrapped up two salteñas for me to take home. More food?
On the way, my coworker informed me that he had only just met our cabbie when he rode to the first lunch (cabbie spoke no english thus this was explained in english). The cabbie had told him work was slow lately so my coworker decided to give him more work by going to pick me up and then, later, taking us to his tio`s house. No wonder the guy liked him so much.
Our second lunch was with the same tio & tia I had joined for lunch the first time I was in La Paz. They were happy to see us again and I made my best effort to speak spanish as much as possible. Since I had no other choice. Lunch was incredible. Again. But I was full. Tia had made a comment during the first lunch I had with them that she was impressed by how I ate everything that was offered to me. This ran through my mind as I stared pleadingly at each dish brought out to the table. I was still so full from the salteñas and this food was adding to my misery. One of the cousins allowed me to dump my potatoes on his plate when tia wasn`t looking. That helped a bit. But by then end, after dessert, I couldn`t move.
My coworker spent time chatting with his cousin and uncle as I paced in circles around them hoping to quicken the digestion. It was of little help. I sat down, I stood up, I paced. I felt miserable. I don`t think I have eaten so much in my life. When it was time to leave, I thanked them repeatidly for the invitation and the meal. Then I stretched out in the cab. We stopped on the way home at a place our friendly cabbie thought I might find a cigar.
And then I stretched out on the front porch with a glass of wine (for digestion), my cigar, and waiting for two hours for the food to digest. It was all I could do. This was followed by a nap.
That night we were celebrating my coworker`s last night in Bolivia with a small get-together at the house and then a trip to the bar. A pizza the size of DC was ordered (I had heard about this pizza for three weeks), but I had no intention of eating it - still aching from my two lunches. While we waited four of us walked over to the markets across the street for the "party in a box". I heard heard tales of this as well. You can buy a party in a box: bottles of booze, cups, mix, and ice for about $20. Box secured we went back to the house. Tio Oscar came over as did my coworker`s friends that I stayed with my first night in La Paz. Drinks were poured and folk music was played. I think there might have even been a bit of dancing. I know Tio attempted to teach me how - to little success. And when we were just saucey enough, we headed to the bar.
The bar was a bit of a dive bar, but with a U2 cover band. We bought a bottle of rum and a bottle of coke and took our seats. Drinking continued way into the night as we toasted our time in Bolivia and basically everything that is Bolivia. When the bar finally kicked us out we stumbled home. I think we made it home around 5am. I can`t be sure. But I was still full. And there was another family lunch coming up soon...
Passing Time in the Lunar Valley (a month ago)
My time in La Paz was mostly spent relaxing and spending time with my coworker`s family. Each day we would try to do something unique, but mainly we enjoyed relaxing after busing all over southern Bolivia.
With my coworker mostly recovered from his oxygen scare the night before, and an extremely late start to the day (with a breakfast of more salteñas), we decided our main event of the day would be to check out "Moon Valley", a unique environment a short drive outside of La Paz. The national park looks very lunar, with brittle dirt columns rising high above dark crevases. A narrow path through the area allows you to feel like you are walking on a lunar landscape. It was an interesting way to spend the afternoon - mostly taking goofy shots of one another surrounded by the odd landscape. When we arrived I walked up to the park entrance first and asked, in spanish, what the entrance fee was. The lady behind the desk asked, in english, if I was Bolivian. I said yes. She said she didn`t think so. My coworker and his cousins walked up and she asked them. They said we all were. She charged me the extranjero entrance fee and the others paid the citizens´ fee - a fourth of my fee. No idea how she knew.
There didn`t seem to be any literature explaining how the terraine was formed - just a map to get through it. So feel free to google "Bolivia Moon Valley" for an explaination.
I went into town afterwards to schedule a bike tour down the "World`s Most Dangerous Road" and to reschedule my plane ticket to Santa Cruz later that week. Both were done easily and left plenty of time to head back to the `burbs for a bit more sight-seeing: A couple of dance groups who would be performing in Carnival were practicing at the local park. Carnival in Oruro, Bolivia, is one of the must-see carnivals in South America. The dancing is fast and folk like, and dancers are all in traditional costumes - some with devils masks to boot. It has some of the best dancing on the continent. Or so my coworker`s proud cousin told me. The group we went to watch was entertaining. While they didn`t wear the costumes to practice, many had bells lining their boots for some extra oomph. It was really cool to see. And a great second unique outing for our day.
Check out the dancing here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHC-1Wq6c-g
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPr29AUpi_Q
For pics of my time in La Paz, follow this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603944779719/
With my coworker mostly recovered from his oxygen scare the night before, and an extremely late start to the day (with a breakfast of more salteñas), we decided our main event of the day would be to check out "Moon Valley", a unique environment a short drive outside of La Paz. The national park looks very lunar, with brittle dirt columns rising high above dark crevases. A narrow path through the area allows you to feel like you are walking on a lunar landscape. It was an interesting way to spend the afternoon - mostly taking goofy shots of one another surrounded by the odd landscape. When we arrived I walked up to the park entrance first and asked, in spanish, what the entrance fee was. The lady behind the desk asked, in english, if I was Bolivian. I said yes. She said she didn`t think so. My coworker and his cousins walked up and she asked them. They said we all were. She charged me the extranjero entrance fee and the others paid the citizens´ fee - a fourth of my fee. No idea how she knew.
There didn`t seem to be any literature explaining how the terraine was formed - just a map to get through it. So feel free to google "Bolivia Moon Valley" for an explaination.
I went into town afterwards to schedule a bike tour down the "World`s Most Dangerous Road" and to reschedule my plane ticket to Santa Cruz later that week. Both were done easily and left plenty of time to head back to the `burbs for a bit more sight-seeing: A couple of dance groups who would be performing in Carnival were practicing at the local park. Carnival in Oruro, Bolivia, is one of the must-see carnivals in South America. The dancing is fast and folk like, and dancers are all in traditional costumes - some with devils masks to boot. It has some of the best dancing on the continent. Or so my coworker`s proud cousin told me. The group we went to watch was entertaining. While they didn`t wear the costumes to practice, many had bells lining their boots for some extra oomph. It was really cool to see. And a great second unique outing for our day.
Check out the dancing here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHC-1Wq6c-g
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPr29AUpi_Q
For pics of my time in La Paz, follow this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603944779719/
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Back in La Paz (a month ago)
Remember the blog about my time in Sucre? Yeah, it was a while ago. Here`s the next chapter. Yes, this happened over a month ago...
After a few days in Sucre where I met up with my coworker again, we both bought plane tickets to La Paz and flew back to spend the remainder of his time in Bolivia with his cousins. When we arrived in La Paz, a little more than two weeks after leaving it for the holidays in Tarija, my coworker`s cousins were waiting for us at the airport. It was raining which pretty much spoiled our plans to immediately set out for a group of ruins about an hour outside of the city. Instead we were ushered to his childhood home a few minutes outside of the city center. But before stopping there, we went for salteñas (like empanadas, but Bolivian style) at the restaurant they all grew up with. A brilliant way to welcome us back to La Paz.
There were no real plans for our time in La Paz; my coworker would spend his last few days visiting friends and family, I just wanted to see more of the city and eat much more traditional Bolivian foods. We accomplished both of our goals and I managed to do a few more things.
The first day`s big activity was checking out the witches market in the city center. The market is full of potions, charms, and items of superstition. Locals mainly buy items for good luck. One of these items, llama fetuses, was the main reason I wanted to check out the market. Okay, gross, I know. But interesting none the less. People buy these fetuses and bury them under a house to bless it. Crazy. And worth seeing. The street with the markets was pretty touristy with many more shops set up to cater to people looking for gift items. It was raining full stream and we sent one of the cousins off to find us umbrellas. Umbrellas that held up just long enough for us to get through the market before breaking. Okay, not really that long. But one of the cousins did get the lady in one of the witches markets to explain to us the significance of everything. Really enlightening. Especially after it was translated to English for me. I bought a few love potions for the folks back home that may need them and then we bolted.
To escape the rain and warm up a bit we stopped in this little hip bar down an old cobble stone street. There was art for sale on the walls and I really dug the style of the artist. I was convinced I needed a painting to bring back to the States. But it was cash only. Boo. So I made do with another drink. We attempted a shot of some sort of plant concoction that one of the cousins insisted we try. And by we I mean my coworker. It was harsh. At least by the look on his face. Enough to call it a night.
Before hitting the house we stocked up on wine (because this family loves their wine and so do I) and a few beers. The idea was to chill and chat. We played indoor soccer instead. The plant concoction must have been more harsh than previously thought because in the midst of kicking the soccer ball around, my coworker suddenly grabbed his chest and fell into one of the living room seats. Actually it was the altitude of the city and the exursion of kicking around the ball. But the cousins were on top of the situation. Within minutes my coworker was breathing from an oxygen tank while the cousins took turns massaging his chest. Only in the highest capital city in the world. I was freaked out, they treated it as routine. That pretty much closed the night. Aside from one cousin`s girlfriend having a bit more wine than she thought she could handle and bazooka barfing in a bucket, that was the end to my first day back in La Paz. I still had several more to go...
For pics of my time back in La Paz, follow this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603944779719/
After a few days in Sucre where I met up with my coworker again, we both bought plane tickets to La Paz and flew back to spend the remainder of his time in Bolivia with his cousins. When we arrived in La Paz, a little more than two weeks after leaving it for the holidays in Tarija, my coworker`s cousins were waiting for us at the airport. It was raining which pretty much spoiled our plans to immediately set out for a group of ruins about an hour outside of the city. Instead we were ushered to his childhood home a few minutes outside of the city center. But before stopping there, we went for salteñas (like empanadas, but Bolivian style) at the restaurant they all grew up with. A brilliant way to welcome us back to La Paz.
There were no real plans for our time in La Paz; my coworker would spend his last few days visiting friends and family, I just wanted to see more of the city and eat much more traditional Bolivian foods. We accomplished both of our goals and I managed to do a few more things.
The first day`s big activity was checking out the witches market in the city center. The market is full of potions, charms, and items of superstition. Locals mainly buy items for good luck. One of these items, llama fetuses, was the main reason I wanted to check out the market. Okay, gross, I know. But interesting none the less. People buy these fetuses and bury them under a house to bless it. Crazy. And worth seeing. The street with the markets was pretty touristy with many more shops set up to cater to people looking for gift items. It was raining full stream and we sent one of the cousins off to find us umbrellas. Umbrellas that held up just long enough for us to get through the market before breaking. Okay, not really that long. But one of the cousins did get the lady in one of the witches markets to explain to us the significance of everything. Really enlightening. Especially after it was translated to English for me. I bought a few love potions for the folks back home that may need them and then we bolted.
To escape the rain and warm up a bit we stopped in this little hip bar down an old cobble stone street. There was art for sale on the walls and I really dug the style of the artist. I was convinced I needed a painting to bring back to the States. But it was cash only. Boo. So I made do with another drink. We attempted a shot of some sort of plant concoction that one of the cousins insisted we try. And by we I mean my coworker. It was harsh. At least by the look on his face. Enough to call it a night.
Before hitting the house we stocked up on wine (because this family loves their wine and so do I) and a few beers. The idea was to chill and chat. We played indoor soccer instead. The plant concoction must have been more harsh than previously thought because in the midst of kicking the soccer ball around, my coworker suddenly grabbed his chest and fell into one of the living room seats. Actually it was the altitude of the city and the exursion of kicking around the ball. But the cousins were on top of the situation. Within minutes my coworker was breathing from an oxygen tank while the cousins took turns massaging his chest. Only in the highest capital city in the world. I was freaked out, they treated it as routine. That pretty much closed the night. Aside from one cousin`s girlfriend having a bit more wine than she thought she could handle and bazooka barfing in a bucket, that was the end to my first day back in La Paz. I still had several more to go...
For pics of my time back in La Paz, follow this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603944779719/
Chillin'
During my long bus ride I met several Isrealis on holiday after conscription. They were all heading to El Bolson, a hippie's paradise about two hours south of where I am now. The way they talked it up I almost hopped off the bus with them. Apparently there is very little in El Bolson, just farms to relax on and a lake and mountains to explore. But I needed to get some laundry done and I was really craving a big steak dinner. Plus I heard some of the best ice cream and chocolate can be found here in Bariloche. So I continued on. Though the Brit I was traveling with did bail.
Bariloche is nothing like a farm town. It is like a ski resort town - very built up with all sorts of little boutique shops and video stores. Fortunately I discovered this hostel(ish) way up on the mountain - seemingly miles removed from the hussle of the town below. Yesterday I had a much needed shower and took my pile of dirty clothes down the footpath to the laundry. Then I enjoyed a grande beer and just sat and stared at the lake and mountains. There was a U.S. photographer and his German girlfriend hanging outside and they invited me to join their dinner of Philly cheese steak sandwiches. I offered a bottle of wine and we watched the sun set and chatted well into the evening.
When they headed to bed, I found a group of four German guys chatting buy the window in the main room. I offered another bottle of wine and we chatted until 2am.
Today I am pulling out the books and the Spanish notebook and finding the hammock I swear I saw in a picture of this place. I may get frisky later and go look for the ice cream everyone is raving about. Then again, maybe that can wait until tomorrow. Right now I am happily digesting the home made bread that was laid out for breakfast. What a life.
Bariloche is nothing like a farm town. It is like a ski resort town - very built up with all sorts of little boutique shops and video stores. Fortunately I discovered this hostel(ish) way up on the mountain - seemingly miles removed from the hussle of the town below. Yesterday I had a much needed shower and took my pile of dirty clothes down the footpath to the laundry. Then I enjoyed a grande beer and just sat and stared at the lake and mountains. There was a U.S. photographer and his German girlfriend hanging outside and they invited me to join their dinner of Philly cheese steak sandwiches. I offered a bottle of wine and we watched the sun set and chatted well into the evening.
When they headed to bed, I found a group of four German guys chatting buy the window in the main room. I offered another bottle of wine and we chatted until 2am.
Today I am pulling out the books and the Spanish notebook and finding the hammock I swear I saw in a picture of this place. I may get frisky later and go look for the ice cream everyone is raving about. Then again, maybe that can wait until tomorrow. Right now I am happily digesting the home made bread that was laid out for breakfast. What a life.
Monday, February 18, 2008
33 Hours Later
Where have I been? Scrambling over Argentina. I just arrived in the lake district after a 33 hour bus ride. Longest to date and not eager to do it again. But I am now staying a really nice place on a hill in Bariloche with amazing views of the lakes and mountains. Nothing to do now but drink wine and stare. I guess that also gives me time to catch up on the blog. I will try to do that as well tonight and tomorrow. Who knows where I left off last. But so much has happened in the past four weeks that I feel it will take months to catch up here online.
I`m just happy to be in one place for a few days. Now if I can just find a cigar shop to compliment my four bottles of wine and my view.
I`m just happy to be in one place for a few days. Now if I can just find a cigar shop to compliment my four bottles of wine and my view.
Sunday, February 10, 2008
Back From the Bottom of the World
I just got back to Ushuaia from Antarctica. The trip was by far the most amazing trip I have ever done. I would go back immediately. If it didn´t cost so friggin much. But really, Antarctica is an awesome destination with the most beautiful views I have ever seen. Penguins galore - I think 700 of my 1000 pics are of penguins alone. But there are several shots of whales, leopard seals and the landscape. Problem is I took way too many pics. So unfortunately you will probably have to wait until I am back in the states before those pics get posted along with the stories. I will post a few in the next couple of days as a teaser.
I met two gals from Charlotte and a Brit on my boat who were planning to rent a car and drive to Torres del Paine (look at the Patagonia logo - that´s the place) in Chile. So I am hitching a ride with them for some good hiking and then on to Calafate to see the world´s only growing glacier. After those two stops I am back on my own to head to the lake district of Argentina and Mendoza before heading back to Buenos Aires and then home. It´s almost painful to think that I only have 20 days left. Those of you that are reading at my office, if something has happened and I need to be let go, now woul be a good time to let me know so I can plan on continuing my travels. I am in no hurry to return.
I met two gals from Charlotte and a Brit on my boat who were planning to rent a car and drive to Torres del Paine (look at the Patagonia logo - that´s the place) in Chile. So I am hitching a ride with them for some good hiking and then on to Calafate to see the world´s only growing glacier. After those two stops I am back on my own to head to the lake district of Argentina and Mendoza before heading back to Buenos Aires and then home. It´s almost painful to think that I only have 20 days left. Those of you that are reading at my office, if something has happened and I need to be let go, now woul be a good time to let me know so I can plan on continuing my travels. I am in no hurry to return.
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
Transition in the Proud City of Civil Unrest
After my tour through the Bolivian salt flats I had to take an all night bus (on more unpaved roads) to the city of Sucre - where my coworker had gone earlier to see his grandparents and recover from a cold. When we bought the bus tickets much earlier, the office had told us the bus would arrive in Sucre at 4am. When I arrived in Sucre at 6:30am, my coworker was still at the bus station, waiting for me to arrive. He informed me that he had come down with a nasty case of bronchitis and it was a good idea he had decided to skip the salt falts and rest at his grandparent`s place.
Sucre was to be a transitional stop. Staying just long enough so my coworker could visit the other side of his family before getting back to La Paz. I had no real desire to stay here (or even stop here), but once I arrived I was very much impressed with the whitewashed city. It`s considered the jewel of Bolivia and I could see why immediately. UNESCO declared it a Cultural Heritage site in 1991 and the city is full of history. Back when Potosi was the richest city in the Americas because of its silver mining, the residents eventually grew tired of its high elevation and the younger people started moving down to Sucre for its preferable climate and elevation. Families moved here to have their children in a cleaner environment, and as more families arrived and those families grew, the need for schools and jobs made the city larger. The silver mines of nearby Potosi made it a wealthy city. After some time Sucre grew so large it became the capitol of Bolivia.
As the city of La Paz, to the northwest, grew in size and wealth (because of the increasing price of its tin) and Sucre became less important (as silver prices dropped) a civil war started between the two cities over which should be the capital city of Bolivia. La Paz won making it the defunct capital. Sucre remained the judiciary capital and the the Supreme Court still convenes here. But there is still strife as the people of Sucre continue to urge the country, and the president they hate, to return the title of capital city to its original place. Demonstrations are happening all the time. In fact, I missed a big demonstration by only a few days when the Supreme Court started the new year. Cars were burned and bottles thrown as a huge group of protesters marched through the streets. The only evidence that remained was a burned out car in front of the Supreme Court when I arrived.
While I was there my coworker and I stayed in his grandfather`s 2nd home; a home away from home where he once tended to his large garden behind the house. When the house was built it was in the country side, even though it was only a 10 minute drive from his original house. Now the city has surrounded the house (a huge soccer stadium is blocks away and can be seen over the house walls). But the large garden remains and is still tended to by a man who lives at the house and maintains the crops for abuelo. The fresh fruits and vegetables that were once grown for family dinners and for friends, are still grown and used for family lunches and snacks. Walking through the large garden, with its variety of crops, I lost the sense of being in a city completely. My coworker showed me the above ground cement pool the grandfather had built to be used for his grandkids and as an irrigation system for the plants. He told me stories of growing up and spending vacations and summers here. Now tall apartment building surround the home, all must be enjoying their view down into the garden.
When it was time for lunch we would cab over to the orginal house and join his grandparents and aunt for a large traditional meal. The helpers (every family has a maid to clean and cook) made some of the best meals I have had during my travels. Abuelo would recount stories from his life and my coworker would translate for me. Afterwards Abuelo and Abuela would walk the halls of the house for exercise. My coworker and I went out to explore the city and its historic streets and buildings. Later in the afternoon we would return for coffee and tea with the family. At night we discovered the Joy Ride Bar, a bar mentioned to me by the aid workers from my Salt Falts trip in Uyuni. The bar had great music and the best mojitos I have ever had (the secret seemed to be the mint shrub they stuffed in the drink).
At night I crashed hard - needing to catch up on sleep missed during the over night bus rides and the tours through the deserts. On the third day we met the Abuelos for breakfast and a long tearful goodbye - they didn`t know when they would see my coworker again. And then tia took us to the airport. We had agreed the 14 hour bus ride to La Paz was out of the question when I $65 plane ticket only took an hour. By lunch I was back in La Paz, the city I had spent less than 24 hours in just before Christmas. And I was also back with the tios and primos from my holidays in Tarija. It was good to see the family again. And it was time to explore the highest capital in the world (even if it wasn`t considered by Sucre residents to be the real capital).
For pictures from my time in Sucre, follow this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603705342804/
Sucre was to be a transitional stop. Staying just long enough so my coworker could visit the other side of his family before getting back to La Paz. I had no real desire to stay here (or even stop here), but once I arrived I was very much impressed with the whitewashed city. It`s considered the jewel of Bolivia and I could see why immediately. UNESCO declared it a Cultural Heritage site in 1991 and the city is full of history. Back when Potosi was the richest city in the Americas because of its silver mining, the residents eventually grew tired of its high elevation and the younger people started moving down to Sucre for its preferable climate and elevation. Families moved here to have their children in a cleaner environment, and as more families arrived and those families grew, the need for schools and jobs made the city larger. The silver mines of nearby Potosi made it a wealthy city. After some time Sucre grew so large it became the capitol of Bolivia.
As the city of La Paz, to the northwest, grew in size and wealth (because of the increasing price of its tin) and Sucre became less important (as silver prices dropped) a civil war started between the two cities over which should be the capital city of Bolivia. La Paz won making it the defunct capital. Sucre remained the judiciary capital and the the Supreme Court still convenes here. But there is still strife as the people of Sucre continue to urge the country, and the president they hate, to return the title of capital city to its original place. Demonstrations are happening all the time. In fact, I missed a big demonstration by only a few days when the Supreme Court started the new year. Cars were burned and bottles thrown as a huge group of protesters marched through the streets. The only evidence that remained was a burned out car in front of the Supreme Court when I arrived.
While I was there my coworker and I stayed in his grandfather`s 2nd home; a home away from home where he once tended to his large garden behind the house. When the house was built it was in the country side, even though it was only a 10 minute drive from his original house. Now the city has surrounded the house (a huge soccer stadium is blocks away and can be seen over the house walls). But the large garden remains and is still tended to by a man who lives at the house and maintains the crops for abuelo. The fresh fruits and vegetables that were once grown for family dinners and for friends, are still grown and used for family lunches and snacks. Walking through the large garden, with its variety of crops, I lost the sense of being in a city completely. My coworker showed me the above ground cement pool the grandfather had built to be used for his grandkids and as an irrigation system for the plants. He told me stories of growing up and spending vacations and summers here. Now tall apartment building surround the home, all must be enjoying their view down into the garden.
When it was time for lunch we would cab over to the orginal house and join his grandparents and aunt for a large traditional meal. The helpers (every family has a maid to clean and cook) made some of the best meals I have had during my travels. Abuelo would recount stories from his life and my coworker would translate for me. Afterwards Abuelo and Abuela would walk the halls of the house for exercise. My coworker and I went out to explore the city and its historic streets and buildings. Later in the afternoon we would return for coffee and tea with the family. At night we discovered the Joy Ride Bar, a bar mentioned to me by the aid workers from my Salt Falts trip in Uyuni. The bar had great music and the best mojitos I have ever had (the secret seemed to be the mint shrub they stuffed in the drink).
At night I crashed hard - needing to catch up on sleep missed during the over night bus rides and the tours through the deserts. On the third day we met the Abuelos for breakfast and a long tearful goodbye - they didn`t know when they would see my coworker again. And then tia took us to the airport. We had agreed the 14 hour bus ride to La Paz was out of the question when I $65 plane ticket only took an hour. By lunch I was back in La Paz, the city I had spent less than 24 hours in just before Christmas. And I was also back with the tios and primos from my holidays in Tarija. It was good to see the family again. And it was time to explore the highest capital in the world (even if it wasn`t considered by Sucre residents to be the real capital).
For pictures from my time in Sucre, follow this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603705342804/
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Shhhh...I´m Hunting Peengwins
There you go, four more stories to read while I am off exploring Antarctica. That catches me up to about a month ago. Ugh, so far behind. Make some comments while I`m gone and tell me something interesting. Complain about the blog or the stories. Rave about the pictures. Laugh at me because I have only one short month left. Give me something to read when I return in 12 days.
I may try to get in one more entry tomorrow morning depending on how much sleep I get tonight and how much cold weather clothes shopping I do.
Anyway, I am looking forward to hopefully getting a full night`s sleep tonight for the first time in about a week. Buenos Aires was tough on me. Shame on it and it`s yummy bottles of wine. I just hope this bright sky at 11pm doesn`t keep me awake. I am having Iceland flash backs, but without the young Icelandic hipsters out clubbing. Just hippies and old couples. Wish me luck and warmth. I`ll be sending out post cards from Antartica. If you want one, send me an address and I`ll see how much money I have left for stamps.
Hasta Luego
I may try to get in one more entry tomorrow morning depending on how much sleep I get tonight and how much cold weather clothes shopping I do.
Anyway, I am looking forward to hopefully getting a full night`s sleep tonight for the first time in about a week. Buenos Aires was tough on me. Shame on it and it`s yummy bottles of wine. I just hope this bright sky at 11pm doesn`t keep me awake. I am having Iceland flash backs, but without the young Icelandic hipsters out clubbing. Just hippies and old couples. Wish me luck and warmth. I`ll be sending out post cards from Antartica. If you want one, send me an address and I`ll see how much money I have left for stamps.
Hasta Luego
The Scenic Safari Part 2
On day two of the tour the landscapes would change as drastically as the music playing in the car. Our first day we were treated to traditional flute music. I have come to really hate this music. But I was pleasantly surprised to find the Police playing when I climbed into the truck that morning. The music was across the board that day, just like the scenery we would see.
I was up at 6am and into the cafeteria for a bread and bananas breakfast. Not exactly an Americano breakfast, but what can you do. The others in my group gradually made their way out to the table to join me. But no one really talked.
We were in the truck and on the "road" by 7:30am. Most of our day would be spent driving from location to location, none of them being close to each other. In fact, we drove for five straight hours that morning with only random stops for pee breaks. At one point we were in a ghost town where our guide disappeared for 20 minutes doing who knows what. Other times we just stopped along the hills for some one to relieve themselves.
The music changed from the Police to Nirvana to a Swedish mixed CD. The scenery seemed to change with each new CD. We drove past large heards of alpaca and llamas in the middle of no where. We passed tiny villages of farmers. And we passed giant rock cliffs. The driving again made my eyes heavy, but I didn`t want to shut them for fear of missing something.
There were two other trucks following us on our route. One filled with a Brazilian family, the other with the family of the loud German from the bus incedent in Potosi and the aid working couple. When we all stopped for lunch, the guy from Iowa darted out of the truck. Apparently the German guy was driving him crazy - the guy wouldn´t shut up and he was belittling the guide. I kept a healthy distance. Lunch was lame. Disappointing actually. I ate what I could and went off to climb a hill for a better view before we took off again. We drove on to our first real destinations: lagoons. Some times we seemed to be driving along an obvious trail. Other times we seemed to be following light tracks in the dirt.
The lagoons were pretty. Everything was. But our time to see them was limited. Our guide seemed bent on keeping us moving. We seemed bent on slowing him down. We found flamingos at one and made him wait patiently as we crept close and closer to the birds to get a good picture, and they moved farther and farther from us. We drove further into a desert-like area where the landscape seemed to change colors with the breaks in the clouds. Our next stop was the Arbol de Piedra (the rock tree), a rock that had been weathered into the shape of a tree. We took our obligatory pictures, relieved our full bladders and marveled at the colorful sands and other rock formations.
Eventually we made it to Lago Colorado, a lake colored a rosy shade because of the algae in it. Here we apparently entered a portion of the park we needed to pay for and show our passports. Our guide cut off the engine as we all went in to take care of formalities. When we returned, the engine wouldn`t turn over. The other guy and I had to push our truck the 500 meters to our hostel. We were at over 5000 meters elevation, and so when we got the truck parked, I felt like I was hyperventalating. Our new hostel was a bit less extravegant than our previous one. No heat. No hot water. Just 8 blankets on our beds to keep us warm. I stole several more off the bed my coworker was supposed to get. And then I found a small store with wine to make sure I stayed warm. Dinner was even less extravegant than our place. Spaghetti noodles. I think there was sauce, but it could have also been the soup. I settled for bread and my wine and went back to the store for some cookies to tide me over. With nothing to do and the temps so low, we were all in bed early. Our guide told us to be up at 4am so we could get an early start. I had no problem going to bed early. But I did have a problem staying asleep. I tossed almost all night and ended up grumpy when my alarm went off in the dark of the early morning.
There was no breakfast before we got moving. We pulled off in the truck in the dark. Our guide followed truck tracks for the first 15 minutes in the dark, in the middle of a desert. Then he veered of that trail and seemed to just be following his instincts. The moon was just a thin sliver in the sky, but it was the first time I was able to see the entire moon although it was in the shade of the earth. As the sky gradually grew lighter we arrived at a site where the earth opened up and steam poured out and grey mud pits boilded. Our first stop of the day.
There was little to keep people from getting too close to the suflur smelling steam vents. A danger sign marked one particulary large hole. I watched as two older women tempted the fates by edging ever closer to the cusp. It was cold out - we were at the highest elevation of the tour. Our group explored for a short time and then raced back to the car to huddle in the heat spitting from the vents. I passed around the big bag of cookies I had bought the night before. That was breakfast for the time being. We stopped half an hour later at another lake - this one steaming in the cold air. It was thermally heated. And there was a small pool of water where the tourists could take a warm dip. Our guide failed to mention this to us. So we watched as the other groups jumped in with huge smiles brought by the warmth of the waters. I snapped photos. The Swiss girls looked pleadingly at the warm waters. Fifteen minutes later we were all back in the truck heading to Lago Verde. I strolled down to take a picture of the beautiful landscape and meandered around the cliffs surrounding the lake. When I looked back at the jeep I noticed everyone was already back inside. Ugh. Back I trotted.
Our next stop was for breakfast, at the Lago Blanco. Breakfast sucked. I ate more cookies. And then we sat around the lake waiting for the other truck to show. The two Dutch girls, along with the German group from the other truck, were going on to Chile while the rest of us drove back to Uyuni. So we had to wait on the other truck to divide up the passengers. But they had stopped for a dip at the thermal pool. grumble...
When they arrived and we got everyone divided up, I found myself in the other truck with the Isrealies and the aid working couple. The guy from Iowa went on a rant about how annoyed he was traveling with the German. The stories were funny. But we had an eight hour ride back to Uyuni and fortunately converstation changed from bad-mouthing the German to a list over other topics. Until everyone passed out.
I woke to everyone frantically looking for sugary foods and drinks. Apprently our driver had gotten sleepy and was having trouble staying on the road. I tossed the remaining cookies I had into the front seats. It must have done the trick because we were back in Uyuni two hours early. I had plenty of time to kill before my bus to Sucre at 7pm so I checked email and made calls. I was looking forward to my ride because I still had the open seat my coworker gave up when he left earlier. So I could stretch out. But I was later reminded there are no open seats on Bolivian busses. How do you explain to a Bolivian mother and her three kids that they can`t have the empty seat because your friend paid for it already and you want to stretch out? So when an Argentine girl, who missed her earlier bus, asked if she could take the available seat I gave it to her. Better her than a family of four cramped in beside me. Though when I woke up mutch later (some how I managed to sleep a few hours), the Argentine girl was gone and a large, snoring man had taken her place. I didn`t sleep the rest of the way. And we arrived in Sucre two and half hours late.
But all the long commutes were worth that amazing scenery. If you find yourself near Bolivia, brave the unpaved roads and cramped busses to get down to Uyuni. The pictures tell it all...
To see photos of the Salt Flats and surrounding landscapes, follow this link:
http://flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603705286504/
I was up at 6am and into the cafeteria for a bread and bananas breakfast. Not exactly an Americano breakfast, but what can you do. The others in my group gradually made their way out to the table to join me. But no one really talked.
We were in the truck and on the "road" by 7:30am. Most of our day would be spent driving from location to location, none of them being close to each other. In fact, we drove for five straight hours that morning with only random stops for pee breaks. At one point we were in a ghost town where our guide disappeared for 20 minutes doing who knows what. Other times we just stopped along the hills for some one to relieve themselves.
The music changed from the Police to Nirvana to a Swedish mixed CD. The scenery seemed to change with each new CD. We drove past large heards of alpaca and llamas in the middle of no where. We passed tiny villages of farmers. And we passed giant rock cliffs. The driving again made my eyes heavy, but I didn`t want to shut them for fear of missing something.
There were two other trucks following us on our route. One filled with a Brazilian family, the other with the family of the loud German from the bus incedent in Potosi and the aid working couple. When we all stopped for lunch, the guy from Iowa darted out of the truck. Apparently the German guy was driving him crazy - the guy wouldn´t shut up and he was belittling the guide. I kept a healthy distance. Lunch was lame. Disappointing actually. I ate what I could and went off to climb a hill for a better view before we took off again. We drove on to our first real destinations: lagoons. Some times we seemed to be driving along an obvious trail. Other times we seemed to be following light tracks in the dirt.
The lagoons were pretty. Everything was. But our time to see them was limited. Our guide seemed bent on keeping us moving. We seemed bent on slowing him down. We found flamingos at one and made him wait patiently as we crept close and closer to the birds to get a good picture, and they moved farther and farther from us. We drove further into a desert-like area where the landscape seemed to change colors with the breaks in the clouds. Our next stop was the Arbol de Piedra (the rock tree), a rock that had been weathered into the shape of a tree. We took our obligatory pictures, relieved our full bladders and marveled at the colorful sands and other rock formations.
Eventually we made it to Lago Colorado, a lake colored a rosy shade because of the algae in it. Here we apparently entered a portion of the park we needed to pay for and show our passports. Our guide cut off the engine as we all went in to take care of formalities. When we returned, the engine wouldn`t turn over. The other guy and I had to push our truck the 500 meters to our hostel. We were at over 5000 meters elevation, and so when we got the truck parked, I felt like I was hyperventalating. Our new hostel was a bit less extravegant than our previous one. No heat. No hot water. Just 8 blankets on our beds to keep us warm. I stole several more off the bed my coworker was supposed to get. And then I found a small store with wine to make sure I stayed warm. Dinner was even less extravegant than our place. Spaghetti noodles. I think there was sauce, but it could have also been the soup. I settled for bread and my wine and went back to the store for some cookies to tide me over. With nothing to do and the temps so low, we were all in bed early. Our guide told us to be up at 4am so we could get an early start. I had no problem going to bed early. But I did have a problem staying asleep. I tossed almost all night and ended up grumpy when my alarm went off in the dark of the early morning.
There was no breakfast before we got moving. We pulled off in the truck in the dark. Our guide followed truck tracks for the first 15 minutes in the dark, in the middle of a desert. Then he veered of that trail and seemed to just be following his instincts. The moon was just a thin sliver in the sky, but it was the first time I was able to see the entire moon although it was in the shade of the earth. As the sky gradually grew lighter we arrived at a site where the earth opened up and steam poured out and grey mud pits boilded. Our first stop of the day.
There was little to keep people from getting too close to the suflur smelling steam vents. A danger sign marked one particulary large hole. I watched as two older women tempted the fates by edging ever closer to the cusp. It was cold out - we were at the highest elevation of the tour. Our group explored for a short time and then raced back to the car to huddle in the heat spitting from the vents. I passed around the big bag of cookies I had bought the night before. That was breakfast for the time being. We stopped half an hour later at another lake - this one steaming in the cold air. It was thermally heated. And there was a small pool of water where the tourists could take a warm dip. Our guide failed to mention this to us. So we watched as the other groups jumped in with huge smiles brought by the warmth of the waters. I snapped photos. The Swiss girls looked pleadingly at the warm waters. Fifteen minutes later we were all back in the truck heading to Lago Verde. I strolled down to take a picture of the beautiful landscape and meandered around the cliffs surrounding the lake. When I looked back at the jeep I noticed everyone was already back inside. Ugh. Back I trotted.
Our next stop was for breakfast, at the Lago Blanco. Breakfast sucked. I ate more cookies. And then we sat around the lake waiting for the other truck to show. The two Dutch girls, along with the German group from the other truck, were going on to Chile while the rest of us drove back to Uyuni. So we had to wait on the other truck to divide up the passengers. But they had stopped for a dip at the thermal pool. grumble...
When they arrived and we got everyone divided up, I found myself in the other truck with the Isrealies and the aid working couple. The guy from Iowa went on a rant about how annoyed he was traveling with the German. The stories were funny. But we had an eight hour ride back to Uyuni and fortunately converstation changed from bad-mouthing the German to a list over other topics. Until everyone passed out.
I woke to everyone frantically looking for sugary foods and drinks. Apprently our driver had gotten sleepy and was having trouble staying on the road. I tossed the remaining cookies I had into the front seats. It must have done the trick because we were back in Uyuni two hours early. I had plenty of time to kill before my bus to Sucre at 7pm so I checked email and made calls. I was looking forward to my ride because I still had the open seat my coworker gave up when he left earlier. So I could stretch out. But I was later reminded there are no open seats on Bolivian busses. How do you explain to a Bolivian mother and her three kids that they can`t have the empty seat because your friend paid for it already and you want to stretch out? So when an Argentine girl, who missed her earlier bus, asked if she could take the available seat I gave it to her. Better her than a family of four cramped in beside me. Though when I woke up mutch later (some how I managed to sleep a few hours), the Argentine girl was gone and a large, snoring man had taken her place. I didn`t sleep the rest of the way. And we arrived in Sucre two and half hours late.
But all the long commutes were worth that amazing scenery. If you find yourself near Bolivia, brave the unpaved roads and cramped busses to get down to Uyuni. The pictures tell it all...
To see photos of the Salt Flats and surrounding landscapes, follow this link:
http://flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603705286504/
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