Nostalgia in Lima, Peru

Airline tickets across country borders are expensive. Our plan was to cross the Ecuador border by bus and get a cheaper flight to Lima, Peru, from Piura. After our night with Winnie the Pool, we woke up early to catch a cab to the Piura airport and see about buying a ticket. Our plan worked: We found tickets for $80 each instead of the $280 from Guayaquil or Cuenca.

But, as proper scouts should be, we were prepared for the worst and arrived more than 2.5 hours early. Since there was no one in line when we arrived, and we had no problems getting the tickets, there was much time to kill in a tiny airport with nothing to do. Okay, one of us had a bad case of the runs (hint: their name doesn`t start with a D), so that person had plenty to do during that time. The other half of us looked through our guide book to see what there was to do in Lima and where to stay. He hit on the upscale neighborhood of Miraflores just outside the city center.

Lima is one of the world`s largest cities with 7.6 million people. Francisco Pizzaro founded it in 1535 and the city retains much of that colonial history. In fact, Mr. Pizarro, conqueror of the Incas, is burried right in the city center. Large archelogical sites, dating over a thousand years old, dot the city landscape. But its sky scrapers and hurried business elite remind you it is very much a modern city.

A modern city with problems. Apparently the shanty towns, full of Lima`s impoverished, are quite large. And crime is rampant. This has given Lima a misleading reputation as a dangerous city, and unfortunately many tourists skip the city in favor of Cusco. But we were ready to see what Lima had to offer. At least from the safety of its more upscale neighborhood.

When we arrived at Lima`s airport and gathered our luggage, I tried to book a later flight to Cusco. But every airline`s systems were down and so we just walked out to the parking lot in search of a cab. Our cab driver doubled as a tour guide as he pointed out this landmark and that ocean on our way to the hostal; at one point even stopping the car on a cliff looking out over the ocean and getting out of the car - we both clutched our bags ready to sprint for it, just to discover he was simply proud of his city. The metal cage around his driver-side seat didn`t add much comfort.

The early afternoon was spent dropping off laundry, getting a quick bite to eat at what appeared to be a local favorite restaurant (not one of our favorites though), and then my travel buddy, Regina, taking a much needed nap while I went off in search of an airline office to buy a ticket to Cusco (attempt numero dos). Ticket in hand for three days later, I decided to explore the neighborhood. The neighborhood was very affluent. Reminding me of many parts of U.S. and European cities. There were restaurants galore, coffee houses (even a Starbucks, of course), high-end bookstores, public parks with art, and people crowding the streets with shopping bags in hand. I had to share this with Regina. And so I went and woke her up. She didn`t hurt me for doing so.

We decided to see Miraflores from above. Paragliding was offered on a cliff by the ocean, and for $40 we were game. We suited up, both a little anxious at the thought of sailing off the cliff with a freeway below it. But once each of us were in the air with our "pilot" strapped to our back, the anxiety ceased and enthusiasm ruled. My pilot couldn`t speak spanish, but there was little to say once airborne, aside from "mas alto" and "a la derecha"! We sailed over the Pacific. We sailed over the open air mall. We sailed over the parks. We sailed passed the windows of penthouses in the numerous aptartment highrises. One of us was told about the many nude sightings in those windows. And 15 minutes later we each sailed back to the ground. It seemed short, but it was great! (see the video clip below).

Now knowing the layout of the land, we decided to get a snack from the local market. The local high-end market. It was similar to Whole Foods in the States. Too similar. I was starting to feel nostalgic. Then I heard the Christmas tunes playing overhead. It was all too much. I needed to get back outside and remind myself I was in Peru. And yet the neighborhood feel didn`t help.

We walked to a cafe for coffee and some food. We watched the people of Miraflores stroll by. All eerily familiar. Next we decided to walk down to the open-air mall by the ocean. Full of little shops and trendy looking people buying things from them. And there in the corner was a Hooters. Maybe not so European, but definitely felt like the States. With the feel of nostalgia already overwhelming us, we decided to see a movie. After confirming "Lions for Lambs" was in English, we bought our tickets, our popcorn, our big soda and sat with the rest of the young movie-goers.

Two hours later when the movie ended and I walked into the restroom, I had completely forgotten I was not in the States. The spanish being spoken in the restroom was the only thing that snapped me back to reality (though that is surprising for those of you who know DC). It was time to walk back to the hostal. The site of my backback would snap my brain back into the present.

And it did. But then I met a British fellow there at the hostal and ended up talking about his time in the States until well into the night. I decided then that the next day would be spent exploring Lima`s colonial past.

For pics of my time in Lima, follow this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603403921726/

For my paragliding fun...