Heavy Metal Loja

Because time was getting tight we all decided to leave Cuenca a day earlier than we had planned. Friday morning we did a mass mailing from Cuenca`s post office of items we didn`t want to carry any longer. Also, the thought of mailing items from Peru seemed less secure than Ecuador. Those of you receiving postcards from me, let me know if they actually arrive.

At the bus station a short time later Mark bought a ticket bound for Peru`s coast and my travel buddy and I bought tickets to Loja, Ecuador; a city four hours south where we could pick up a bus to cross the Ecuador/Peru border. Our buses were leaving immediately and so we rushed on board. The entire four hours was spent reading and trying to tune out the reggaeton that has been a staple on each bus so far.

Our hostal was in the middle of the city. We were led to our dorm room of four beds for just the two of us. As we unpacked the sound of a big band came through our doors over-looking the busy street below. Just down on the corner a military band had set up in front of a construction site and started to play. A nice welcome to Loja.

We were both hungry and decided it was time to find a restaurant and see the city in the process. The city wasn`t all that big, but it was busy. People were every where. And most of these people were kids. And four of these kids were piled into a car that drove past us during our walk. As these kids drove past, one shouted "HEEEY GRINGO!". I shouted back "HEY!". Another nice welcome to Loja.

That night we decided to check out Loja`s bar scene which, according to Lonely Planet, consisted of two bars. One of which was no longer there. There were other bars. At 10pm on a Friday the city was full of kids and young adults standing in lines for various bars. But we decided to play it safe and try the second bar Lonely Planet refered to as "a rustic old watering hole, perfect for a relaxed drink". That and we were in no mood for more reggaeton. We found El Viejo Minero (The Old Miner) and walked right in. Right in front of everyone staring towards the soccer match on the film screen beside the front door. Awkward. And there were no seats to immediately hide in.

Fortunately the game ended two minutes later opening up several tables, and into one we dove. It was a relaxed place for a beer, decorated to look like a mine shaft. Sort of. We ordered a round and chatted. Then in walked five guys who marched straight to the small stage area in front of the bar. They started picking up the instruments we thought were left over from a band that might have played earlier. Then they started to rock. So much for a relaxed drink.

During the first few songs everyone in the band seemed nervous. The singer had one hand in his pocket while the other gripped the mike. Odd since there were only about 12 people in the bar. But with the encouragement of our waiter (who reminded me of the crazy big guy in Bachelor Party), who was whistling and yelling enough to make it seem like they had an audience of 20, they started to get more comfortable and began rocking harder. They were actually really good - in a late 80s heavy metal sort of way. The lead guitarist drove through great solos. The drummer followed with his Metallica-esque banging. And the lead singer wailed like Chris Cornell. And then they did a cover of Radiohead`s "Creep" and the fun was over. They butchered it. It was the only song they did in English and it was clear the singer didn`t really know the words. And there was no bang of the guitar before the chorus. Awful. We couldn`t bring ourselves to applaud.

Thankfully afterwards they went right back to rocking out. And the bar filled up steadily. People were really into it. Including the pair of guys sitting in front of us with black jean jackets and spiked leather braceletes, banging their heads and giving each other high fives. They were henceforth referred to as Beavis and Butthead. We stuck around the entire set; even when they took a short break. And because I had just downed three grande beers, I decided to stay longer when they finished. And order another. We finally arrived back at the hostal around 1am. And went to bed completely rocked out. Enter Sandman.

For pictures of Loja, and a few more from later, follow this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603391460468/