It Was This Big!

Our final morning started the way the previous day ended: dark and raining. The guides woke us at 4am. As I slowly came to I realized our tent had leaked during the night; the bottom of my sleeping bag was soaked. December is the rainy season. I just hoped the rain would clear before we got to Machu Picchu.

Breakfast was light. Our guides were eager to get us moving. The trail from our campsite to Machu was only 5 kilometers but they wanted us to be among the first to see Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate when the sun rose.

We hiked in the rain to a gate five minutes down the trail. This was the entrance to the last part of the trail. Apparently no one is allowed through before 5:30am. Not exactly sure why, but there we were, waiting behind this gate until the clock hit 5:30. Other groups piled in behind us. At least we managed to be first. As we waited, the rain stopped. Booyah!

When the gates opened people bolted. Suddenly I realized I was practically jogging the trail. It was narrow and I eventually found myself stuck behind two other trekkers from my group. They tried to make small talk but I only wanted to pass. When the trail widened, I did just that. Why was I in such a hurry? No idea. We were all going to have to wait at the Sun Gate together. Maybe I just wanted to make up for going so slow the day before.

The trail was relatively easy, even as I jogged it. It was easy right up until the almost vertical flight of 50 Inca stairs leading up to the Sun Gate. I leaped up step after step as others climbed with hands. And then I got to the top at the Sun Gate and almost passed out. Should have taken those steps a little slower. But I was eager to see Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate. The Sun Gate, or Intipunku, is where trekkers get their first grand view of the site. And when I looked out to where Machu Picchu was supposed to be I saw…..clouds. Should have taken those steps a little slower.

As everyone trickled in we sat and waited. There were small breaks in the clouds and the hope was that the early sun would burn the rest off. Our guide didn’t look hopeful. As more and more hikers gave up and continued on with the hike to the site, we started to give up hope. Fifteen minutes later we were walking the last 20 minutes down to Machu Picchu.

When we arrived at the watchman’s hut, the spot for the classic postcard view, the site was still covered in clouds. We were in Machu Picchu and couldn’t see it. Sigh.

Time to take care of formalities. We descended down to the main entrance, where the day-trippers arrive by bus. The site was already busy, several buses had arrived and dozens of people were walking around. Our guide led us to a passport check where we presented our park tickets and received another stamp. Now immigration will know I did the Inca trail AND saw Machu Picchu. After bathroom visits and bag checks, we regrouped and reentered the site. Our guide took us to a spot near the front of the site where he began his lecture about the history of Machu Picchu – The Lost City of the Incas.

Perched high in the Andes with a commanding view, Machu Picchu clearly was once vitally important as a ceremonial center. Most of the site is still intact, mainly because the Spanish seem never to have discovered its existence. There are no records or mention of the citadel in the chronicles kept by the Spanish and therefore no clear indication of what the site was used for. In 1911, while looking for the lost city of Vilcabamba, the last stronghold on the Incas, American historian Hiram Bingham discovered Machu Picchu – thickly overgrown and abandoned. Now, up to a 1000 people a day visit the site during its busy season.

Not quite as many people were there while we were which made the tour and lecture more enjoyable. As our guide talked, the clouds lifted revealing an enormous site – much bigger than I expected it to be. I was almost overwhelmed. And surrounded by the awe-inspiring Andes, I suddenly felt very small. But I could appreciate why the Incas chose the site. We continued walking throughout the site as our guide explained various parts. For two hours we learned about Machu Picchu and the Incas and their fate after the Spanish conquest. The whole experience was incredible and doing the hike in along the trail only enhanced the experience.

Finally we were given three hours to explore on our own. Because I missed both post card views of the entire citadel, I decided to tackle Huayna Picchu, the imposing mountain seen in most pictures of the site behind the citadel. From the top of this mountain we were told there would be a sweeping view of Machu Picchu. But we were warned it would require lots of energy as the trail up was steep and tough. I didn’t care. I wanted the view. And off I went with several others from the group. It was steep. And it was tough. I was again breathing hard and my heart was racing within minutes. The tight Inca stairs up the mountain were soaked from the earlier rains and didn’t help the climb. Finally, at the top, I got my view of the entire city, But I was so high up the citadel looked tiny. No matter, the views were still amazing. Of the site, of the trail down the mountain, of the Andes.

By the time I made it back to the base of Huayna Picchu I had about half an hour before I was to catch the bus back to Aqua Calientes where we would meet the guides again and catch a train back to Cuzco. I decided to make a dash back to the watchman’s hut for the quintessential shot of Macchu Picchu. I followed a family towards that direction only to find myself in a restricted part of the park. The father shrugged his shoulders as I backtracked. Machu Picchu is easy to get lost in and I did several times on my way to the hut. But it was also a good way to see parts I hadn’t seen during the tour. Finally I made it to the hut. And the resulting view was worth the scramble. I got the camera shot I wanted. Then I took several goofy ones. Why not? I deserved it.

As the rain started once again, the group gradually found each other near the entrance and we piled into the buses bound for Agua Calientes. Here we met our guides again at a restaurant and chowed on pizzas and beer and talked about our last four days together. We tipped the porters and the guides. And with money in hand, the guides led us to the train station where we departed on our four hour ride back to Cuzco. I spent most of the trip discussing Holland with the two girls from said country.

Once back in Cuzco, I decided I didn’t have the energy or the patience to spend another night in the party hostal. A couple in the group mentioned a hostal they were staying in a few blocks from the party pad. They said it was quiet and comfy. And for only $18 a night it was perfect. I checked in, dropped my things, and headed down to the restaurant/lounge for one of the best omelets I have ever had and a huge fresh fruit drink. And I read by the fireplace in absolute silence. At midnight I crawled into the most comfortable bed I had slept in to that point and immediately passed out. I had earned my rest.

For pictures of the trail and Machu Picchu, follow this link:
http://flickr.com/photos/15233918@N00/sets/72157603570646929/